12 05 2013

I am a relative new comer to hydraulic brakes. I used to rely on Avid BB7’s or even rim brakes. It would be fair to say the reason I did not embrace hydraulic power earlier was my deep appreciation for Pual Components Love Levers. I first saw set of these beautiful, svelte brake levers in Kenwood Cyclery, Minneapolis, more years ago than I care to remember. They were mounted to a very simple Tom Teesdale singlespeed. It was a beautiful machine.

Anyway, when we were spec’ing BA, my ‘all mountain’ 29er hardtail (does that term even exist now? or has it been swallowed whole by ‘enduro’?) a set of Saint hydraulics were put in place. I figured going to a long travel (for the time) fork, with gears, on a burly frame, with geometry set for the steeper, nastier end of the spectrum would have my speeds reaching near-supersonic levels. Of course, my balls proved to be of a slightly lesser dimension, but suffice to say I used every iota of braking power.

I don’t think I will ever forget getting on my Jones (equipped with BB7’s and steel ‘hard-lines’ for ultimate cable operated power) for the first time after acquainting myself with BA and trying to stop for an oncoming car at the end of my street. I was flabbergasted to keep on rolling for about 3 meters beyond where I expected to stop. With that, cable brakes were over.

Move on a few years and I am getting better at maintaining Hydro’s, but I have been frustrated by using push on tubing on the bleed nipples. It just isn’t a solid enough system. It was time to change things…




2 responses

12 05 2013
Clink (@muddytrail)

Looks like the epicbleedsolutions kit?
How do you get round the push-fit of tubing to caliper bleed nipple?

12 05 2013

yep, parts are from epic bleed solutions – in this instance the 60ml syringe and the tubing. The yellow part that screws into the caliper comes with the shimano brakes and I used the wire from the caliper IS adaptor bolts that are drilled, presumably for über safe installation. You can remove the bleed nipple with a 7mm spanner (just make sure its ‘up’ when you unscrew!) and screw in that yellow bit (pictured on the end of the tube from the syringe) to bleed the system, then again with it uppermost, remove it and replace with a wee 3mm hex head grub screw that is also provided with the brakes. using these parts is a bit slower, but much less likely to fall off or leak at inopportune moments. I find it hard to look in the funnel that goes on the brake lever cylinder and keep the syringe on the bleed nipple with out go-go gadget arms :-)~

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